Spring 2020 One Room Challenge // Week Four

Welcome back to week four of the spring One Room Challenge! If you’re new here, welcome! I’m so happy you decided to stop by to learn more about my project. You can catch up on all the details of the previous weeks here:

• Week One
• Week Two
• Week Three

A lot has happened this week. We finished the wallpaper, painted and installed the medallion and installed the light fixture. Installing wallpaper over your head is a nightmare. I’m pretty sure your already guessed that. But the outcome far outweighs the pain! Would I do it again? That’s another big no for me.

Also this week I was really excited to begin working on the cornices. I fell in love with Schumacher’s Bleecker fabric in Twilight and knew it had to make an appearance somewhere in my project. Because of the heavy pattern on the ceiling, I felt cornices would be the perfect amount of coverage over the windows without being too heavy.

While cornice boards can vary in shape, I decided to go with a simple straight design because of the pattern I used on the cornice and once again because of the pattern on the ceiling. I really didn’t want the windows to look too cluttered.

What is a Cornice Board?

A cornice board is a hard window treatment that is affixed to the top of your window. Cornices can be used to hide window hardware and can be hung along with curtain panels. Or, they can be hung alone. Some people may argue that cornices are outdated, but I feel design should always be about what feels right to you. Cornices can be used in a contemporary way if done correctly.

How to Make a Cornice Board

Making a cornice board is fairly simple. You start by building a u-shaped board using pine board. Your pine board is covered in batting and the fabric of your choice.

materials

• (2) 2×12 pine boards (determine the size of board based on your window dimenstions)
• Brad Nails
• Wood Glue or Liquid Nails
• Staple Gun and Staples
• Clamps
• Batting
• No Sew Fabric Fusion
• Fabric of your choice
• Scissors
• Iron

Measure the length of your windows from the outside of your trim. Add 2-3 inches to your overall width. This allows space in between your cornice board and window trim.

Cut your board in the desired length making sure to include the 2-3 inches you have added. Next, cut two 2 inch wood pieces that will attach to your board creating the “U” shape.

Place a thin layer of wood glue along the edge of your 2 inch piece and attach to the end of your front board. Clamp in place and secure using your nail gun. Repeat the steps above if you’re doing more then one cornice board.

Next, lay your batting across a flat surface (I doubled my batting for a padded look). Place your cornice board face down on top of the batting. Wrap the batting around the front of your board and securing it to the back with your staple gun. Continue securing with staples until the entire front board is covered. Trim any excess batting.

Now, lay your fabric across a flat surface, pattern side down. Leave enough fabric on one side to cover the back of your board. Place your board on top of the fabric in the same way you did with your batting. Begin stapling the fabric to the back of the cornice board being careful not to shift your pattern or pull too tight. Secure the fabric all around by stapling one at the top then the bottom as you make your way all around the board. Check the pattern after each staple.

Once you reach the corners, carefully fold the fabric to the back of the sides and stapling as you go.

Trim the access fabric from the TOP OF YOUR BOARD ONLY. With the opposite side that had extra fabric, fold over the short side to cover the nails. Create a seam in your fabric going along the back of the board by folding the fabric over. Place a strip of no sew fabric fusion along the fabric on the bottom side. Place the long side on top of the fabric fusion. Using a hot iron, carefully activate the fusion by placing a towel or cloth on top of your fabric and smoothing with your iron. This will activate the bonds in the fusion and seal the seam closed.

If your fabric has any wrinkles, set your iron on a low setting and swiftly iron out the wrinkles.

To secure the cornice to the wall, we attached keyhole fittings to the backs of our cornices. The boxes are lightweight enough to securely hang on the wall with this hardware. We drilled them right into the fabric and into the wood.

Do you think you could see yourself creating your own cornice boxes? I encourage you to take a look at Pinterest or Houzz to see all of the inspiration out there.

So next week I really have to nail down plans to update the closet door. Then we’ll make over the desk and finish up all of the smaller tasks. Here’s what’s left on the list:

• Paint Room
• Build Cornices and Install
• Install Crown Moulding
• Install Wallpaper
• Build Closet Door
• Paint Chalkboard onto Wall
• Build Shelves
• Paint New Desk
• Sew Pillows
• Install Light Fixture and Ceiling Medallion

Don’t forget to come back next week and check out our progress! And be sure to follow along with all the other featured designers and guest participants which you can catch here!

Until next time,