If you’re here for another week of One Room Challenge excitement, welcome back! It’s week three and I can’t wait to share what’s new here. If you’re just joining me here for the first time, welcome! You can check out my week one progress here and week two here. This is my third round of ORC and I don’t see myself stopping anytime soon. It seems to be the only thing that pushes me to complete a room from start to finish.
This week was an absolute doozy. We tackled one of two labor intensive projects… the crown molding. If you remember from my 3D rendering, I wanted a thick molding that would be substantial in separating the walls from the ceiling so I chose a 5 inch cove molding.
I made the mistake of thinking going with a simple profile would be a lot easier since we’re beginners at hanging crown molding. Well I was wrong! Jerome and I both suffer PTSD from how traumatic that experience was and we’ll probably never revisit that again. And if you’re looking for a step by step guide on how to hang it, this is probably not the place. Seriously guys, we felt like we were filming an episode of Renovation Realities.
Crown Molding Tips
However, even in our molding despair, I managed to come up with a few tips that may help you if you decide to tackle this laborious project.
When you’re working with crown molding, there will be tons of angles you will need to keep track of. From inside corners to outside corners, left corners to right…. it can get overwhelming. ALWAYS label your corners, what angle you used, label each piece according to the wall you will apply it to and document using pictures as a back up.
Because cutting the cove molding at the same angle every time was tricky, we used this Kreg Crown Pro Crown Cutting Accessory to ensure we got the same cuts every time.
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One important fact to remember when doing any molding project is that walls and ceilings aren’t perfect. And because of that, there WILL be seams. One of the most frustrating thing when taking on a molding project is knowing you’ve cut everything correct, only to be left with unsightly seams.
The key in masking those seams is know what products to use. You’re probably wondering when you should use caulk versus wood filler versus spackle. Well, it all depends on how wide your seam is and where the seam is located. Of course the goal is to place two boards as close as possible and evenly, however, that’s not always the case.
When should you use caulk?
When dealing with corners and filling the gaps between your molding, ceiling and walls, use paintable latex caulk. Because of the nature of wood, which expands and contracts according to the temperature and moisture level in your room, the caulk will be flexible enough to move with the wood.
Always apply caulk first and then paint to help the caulk lines “vanish” into the wood. Avoid using caulk on nail holes and large seams because the caulk will expand outside of your holes and seams. Once it’s dry it is not sandable like wood filler and spackle so you will be left with a surface that is not smooth.
When should you use wood filler?
Wood filler can also be a bit tricky. Because it acts just as wood where it expands and contracts, you could end up with cracked seams. It does work well in filling nail holes and smaller seams. The trick is to make sure you overfill your holes and seams and then sand it down to a smooth finish using a 220 grit sandpaper. Follow it up with your paint.
When should you use spackle?
Spackle works great on nail holes and is my go to choice. I find that spackle is a little more lightweight and flexible to work with. For the curved profile of the molding we chose, I had better results when applying it because it didn’t tend to crumble as I worked with it. Spackle does work on wood when filling seams and dries a lot quicker then wood filler. Spackle is easy to sand smooth and looks great once you paint over it.
You will also notice that spackle settles into the crack and may cause an indentation in your surface. To avoid this, you can also apply a thin layer of caulk over the seam and smooth out with a dampened finger. Then paint over the surface once dry. If you use this method, be aware the caulk is not sandable so you will need to apply a thin smooth layer.
Join seams with Wood Glue
If you’re lucky enough to be able to apply molding without seams then that is amazing! But if you’re not, there will come a point where joining seams together is inevitable. Just as I mentioned before, wood has the tendency to expand and contract based on the environment. Before placing your molding on the wall to attach, apply a thin layer of wood glue at the edge. This helps to seal the seams better and keeps the seams from shifting too much if and when the wood expands.
Week Four Agenda
Next week I absolutely have to start thinking about if and how we’ll transform the closet door. And of course getting the wallpaper laid. That was my hope for this week, however, the crown molding took more time than I expected.
- Build Cornices and Install
Install Crown Moulding
- Install Wallpaper
- Build Closet Door
- Paint Chalkboard onto Wall
- Build Shelves
- Paint New Desk
- Sew Pillows
- Install Light Fixture and Ceiling Medallion
As you can see I have quite a list but each task is pretty manageable. We wanted to get the larger items out of the way first so now it’s on to wallpaper! Don’t forget to make your rounds over at the One Room Challenge blog to cheer on the featured designers and guests here.
Until next time,